Tuesday, 22 July 2014

Day 6: Exploring Pittsburgh

I got up late after a nice lie in and Maggie cooked me eggs and bacon for breakfast. After gathering my things and sorting out a few internet errands, I said goodbye to Maggie and went with Bob on a bicycle tour of the city. The Great Allegheny bike trail took us into the city and the final sections of it have recently been opened, connecting the Pittsburgh and Washington D.C.

Our first stop was the bike shop 'Thick bikes' as I needed a new set of tyres for my bike. The rear had worn down a lot quicker than expected through a combination of the weight on the back of the bike and the rough roads and shoulders that I've been riding on. I bought a folding tyre to carry in my panniers and changed the rear tyre there for a new wire-bead one. Unfortunately the latter was to cause a lot of problems throughout the day. Only 200m down the road from the bike shop I noticed the tyre wasn't holding air and we had to turn around to go back. Back at the bike shop, on trying to re-inflate my squishy tyre, the bike mechanic burst my inner tube! Luckily they gave me a free replacement and soon we were back on the road heading for the city. On the way I noticed the tyre rubbing against the frame and thought it just needed a quick readjustment and we'd fix it later. Whilst at the shop I had a go on a massive thick tyred mountain bike, designed for riding in the snow. It was bizarre riding something with tyres probably 10 times wider than my road bike, but a lot of fun at the same time! "Does that thing ride on water?", shouted one of the workmen nearby as I rode it around the street. I almost imagine it would!

We stopped for lunch in 'The Strip District' (not what you think!) at 'Primanti Bros' where I had a 'Pitts-burger' sandwich. The sandwiches are served in a traditional way, with all the chips, coleslaw and tomatoes between the bread with the burger. This came from when workers wanted to have something they could eat with one hand, whilst working with the other (sort of similar to how Cornish pasties came about). The sandwich was delicious and very filling!

Afterwards, Bob showed me around a few of the market shops along 'The Strip' where we saw spice shops, fish shops selling all kinds of seafood and a very large cheese shop which isn't too common over here.

I was due to meet my next Warmshowers host at 4:30 at 'The Point', where the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers join to become the Ohio river. Bob and I headed across there at about 4 and dipped into the fountain there to cool off. Its been very hot and humid around here over the past few days and the water helped cool us down. Whilst there I thought I'd have a go at adjusting the rear wheel to stop it rubbing. Unfortunately the new tyre was just that much bigger than the last, and no matter how I adjusted it there was going to be somewhere that rubbed. I decided to switch it for the folding tyre I bought, which fit much better and gave plenty of clearance, success! Bob took the other tyre with him on his way back to see if we can refund it, but at least I had one new tyre now for the next leg of the journey.

Once Abe, my next host, arrived I gave my thanks to Bob and he headed home. Abe and I then cycled the roughly 15 miles over to Moon on the outskirts of Pittsburgh through the hot and humid heat. On the way, and having thought I'd had my fair share of mechanical problems for the day, my rack decided to detatch itself from the frame and send a screw flying. Fortunately we were able to recover the screw and fix the rack; it had probably just come loose from all the fiddling with the rear tyre today.

At Abe's house I met his Mum and Dad, who cooked beef burgers for us and we chatted about misunderstandings and differences between English and American (Abe laughed when I asked where the 'loo' was!).

Tomorrow its back onto cycling, heading into Ohio and up to Akron. Hopefully less hills the further West I go until I hit the Rockies!




















Monday, 21 July 2014

Day 5: Jennerstown to Pittsburgh

I started the day with a nutritious breakfast of yesterday's leftover takeaway food. I managed to then pack what was left of the strombolli into my panniers for lunch. That's 3 meals I've gotten out of one takeaway order! I set off later today after getting some photos of the stuffed bear and deer heads all wearing sunglasses at the motel office. David, the owner who checked me in and brought me food the night before, wished me good luck on the rest of my travels and warned me of some of the other drivers on the road (using slightly more colourful language).

An easier day today, only 60 miles, and after a few short climbs out of Jennerstown it was mostly downhill all the way to Pittsburgh. After a while I passed signs to 'Ligonier beach', odd I thought as I was nowhere near the sea or a lake. Turns out there was a fairly large swimming pool in the middle of a valley that looked slightly out of place but yet a nice place to go.

The steepest part of the day came around Greensburg as I climbed up and over the town, though they didn't last long and soon I was back heading downhill again.

On the outskirts of Pittsburgh I joined the Great Allegheny bike trail where I met two cyclists, Tom and Glenn, returning from their touring ride back to the city. We chatted about our routes and took gopro snaps with our cameras. Then as we stopped to go our separate ways Glenn handed me a $20 note saying "I have a spare, go get yourself some nice food". The kindness of strangers! I think I'll count it as a donation though and put it towards my total for Macmillan.

I reached my hosts, Bob and Maggie, just before 4 and was welcomed into their house where I had a basement room with large comfy bed. They allowed me to use their washer so I can have some clean (and less smelly!) cycling gear for my next ride. Maggie is a teacher and Bob a librarian but used to teach, and have a wonderful house. Whilst they were out for an hour at meetings I played their baby grand piano and then played when Maggie returned and started preparing dinner. They then provided a lovely dinner for me and we talked a lot about bike tours and where they and their friends (from Stevenage) had been on. Bob is also part of the volunteer group who maintains the local section of the Great Allegheny trail that runs all the way down to Washington D.C.

Such wonderful and generous hosts, with many tips about my route. The large terrain map on the wall here puts into context the distance covered so far, and the distance left to go!

Miles today: 57.5
Total miles: 430.4

















Sunday, 20 July 2014

Day 4: Chambersburg to Jennerstown

Breakfast with the motel restaurant, Peggy's, at 8, where if you're not a regular your name is 'honey'. There I overheard a middle aged man explaining to his elderly father all he knew about current American military technology.... quite a lot of very incorrect and conspiracy-esque theories!

I was on the road at 9:30 and not long after leaving Chambersburg and cresting the first hill I got a glimpse of what lay ahead of me, the Appalachian mountains. The climbs of yesterday were nothing compared to today, with summits over 2000ft in the morning. Climbing for hours in granny ring, then descending so quickly your ears pop is a maddening experience. Your body temperature rises and falls with the hills, and whilst you pray each hill crest will be the last, the views they bring are breathtaking (or whatever breath you have left!)

Around midday I stopped at a cafe at the top of one of the climbs for some lunch. There I met two guys, one on an oxygen supply, and explained how I was raising money for Macmillan and about the support they give. They then suggested I.tried the 84 oz steak challenge at the cafe. If you can eat it all, plus two vegetable sides, in less than an hour you get it for free, otherwise it's $62.50! I opted for a country fried steak sandwich instead, which turned out to be a lightly battered burger in a bun, plus a delicious blueberry pie slice with ice cream.

After several hours in the hills, I headed out of that range and onto a long and fast descent down to Bedford. There I looked at my GPS only to find I'd done 45 miles and it was already 4pm! I thought the descents would continue and I'd be at the motel soon enough, but it turns out I was descending into the Allegheny valley, and the climbs on the other side were even higher than the morning, peaking around 3000 ft!
In total, I climbed 10200 ft today over 95.6 miles. To put that in context, Wales is 60 miles wide and its highest point is Snowdon at 3560 ft. Definitely the toughest days cycling I've ever done and I'm looking forward to a shorter day and my first rest day in Pittsburgh tomorrow and the day after.

I reached the motel around 8:30 pm but unfortunately the local restaurants were all closed, so whilst I was checking in, another shirtless man (who turns out is the motel owner) brought me some crackers, oreos, a couple of chicken wings and carrot and celery with dip with a Pepsi. "Ain't nobody goes hungry in my motel", he said, and gave me a menu to order takeout from. An extremely kind man, who also did his best English accent which sounded closer to Irish!

To help my legs, I ran a cold-water bath and submerged my legs for around 10 mins. Painfully cold at first, but the idea is to force your blood vessels to open and flush out any lactic acid to prevent your muscles from cramping. I've also got some compression shorts that help blood flow into the muscles that I'll wear overnight.

Its been a fun but absolutely shattering day. Ready for some sleep now!

Miles today: 95.6
Total miles: 372.9 















"They've shot their own sign!"