Day 7: Shrewsbury to Bristol

Luc and Leah left some bread out for toast in the morning as they both had to head out early. When I woke they had both gone, but their cat was standing guard and watching me through the catflap!

I got my things together and set off, heading south out of Shrewsbury along the A458. Shortly out of the town, I started a fairly tough climb up into the Shropshire hills. The first climb was very steep, but that was by far the worst.

On Luc's orders, I stopped in Much Wenlock at the butchers to buy myself a pork pie for lunch! Very very tastey! A top tip!

After the Shropshire hills, the rest of the day was fairly flat, with a few rolling hills between the towns. I cycled through Worcester, Tewkesbury and Gloucester before rejoining the A38 down towards Bristol.

I'd made a bit of a mess of my route planning today. I'd routed myself off the A38 and up a bridleway to get across to the smaller B roads. The bridleway was very rough and unrideable so I had to walk the small section up to the next road. Still, the shade was a welcome relief as the sun had been beating down all day.

The minor B roads weaved through some small villages and eventually led me to the Avon cycleway, a fantastic cycle highway that runs into the centre of Bristol and out to Bath. This would take me to the back of Tom and Leahs house (friends from uni) where I'd be staying for the night.

After a long shower (which was painful due to the sunburns) we headed out to the local pub for dinner and the pub quiz. It's tricky to think of the right answers when you're knackered!

Tomorrows ride is shorter and takes me round the corner to Barnstaple, but I've still got quite a few big hills to contend with heading over the Mendips and Exmoor.

Miles today: 112.1
Total miles: 676.3

Day 6: Preston to Shrewsbury

I had a late start today, partly because it was a Sunday, and partly because my warmshowers host in Shrewsbury couldn't meet until 6:30pm so I had plenty of time to get there.

Heading south out of Preston, I aimed for Wigan, trying to navigate the A and B roads out of town. After a few missed turns, I reached Wigan and stopped for a bite to eat. No rush today!

It was a sunny start to the day, but the clouds rolled in halfway through the day and the wind picked up a bit, making it a bit chilly later. Luckily, the sun came out again a couple of hours before I reached Shrewsbury.

Down through Warrington, the ride was a little hillier than I'd expected, with plenty of ups and downs, rather than a big up and big down as I'd been used to the past few days. The extra wind made it a bit more challenging, but I made it to Shrewsbury with plenty of time to spare. I headed for the park at the bottom of town and waited for Luc to get home.

Whilst I was waiting in the park, a man in a giraffe onesie came over to me to tell me he was on a 'random mission' and asked if I could take a photo of him on his phone. I obliged and he thanked me before heading on his way. I honestly have no idea what he was on about!

My host for tonight was a couple called Luc and Leah who I found using the warmshowers site. I met Luc outside the Wheatsheaf pub in town and whilst there entertained the locals with where I'd cycled from and where I was heading. They were impressed, but still called me a madman! One guy came over who apparently owned roughly 20 £10 bikes that he uses for getting the to pub, but then forgets where he's left them!

For dinner we headed to a small pub called the Coach and Horses for some delicious food and a local Shropshire ale. We chatted about touring and about Luc's upcoming tour round France and what he should take with him. A genuinely friendly and exciting couple, they seemed to know half the town on the walk back!

Tomorrows the long one, down to Bristol, so I've got to get up early. With the schools mostly going back tomorrow I hope I can avoid the parent drivers!

Miles today: 87.8
Total miles: 564.2

Day 5: Carlisle to Preston

The guesthouse in Carlisle offered a full English cooked breakfast which got me going in the morning. Then it was out to follow the A6 south out of town.

The roads were steadily climbing as I cycled between the lake district and the Yorkshire dales. The climb would take me over to Kendal, but shortly before the last (and steepest) climb, my gear cable snapped and I had no spare. The nearest bike shop was 17 miles further along the road. I had no choice but to battle up and over the last big climb in my highest gear, pain!

After the painful climbs came a long descent into Kendal, a pretty little town  famous for its mint cake. There I dropped into Evans cycles to buy and fit some new gear cable. They were very helpful and I got my Tifosi ship-shape again. I set off into town for a quick bite to eat, before carrying on my route.

After the big hills in the morning, the rest of the day was fairly flat. After a little while I ended up on a towpath that was pretty bumpy and, being a sunny Saturday, had a lot of walkers to dodge. I decided to escape back to the road for the rest of my journey so I could keep a constant pace.

As I neared Preston, I headed in the direction of a Joshs house (a friend from uni). I found what I thought would be the quickest route was actually blocked by some gates, and that Google maps was wrong - you cant cycled through there! I skirted around the muddy footpath around the edge of the house I couldn't cycle through, and eventually made it to Joshs place for the night.

For food tonight we went to a curry house in one of the local villages. It was quite a fancy place, and I felt a little out of place in my shorts and flip flops whilst everyone else was dressed up! Still, the food was good and very filling!

Tomorrow I'll head down the Welsh border towards Shrewsbury. Hopefully this sunny weather will follow me all the way!

Miles today: 91.9
Total miles: 476.4

Day 4: Glasgow to Carlisle

My alarm woke me up just before 8 this morning. The easyhotel room didn't have any windows, so I wouldn't have know it was daylight outside! After a bit of breakfast, I got kitted up and set off through Glasgow heading south.

After a few wrong turns in Glasgow's grid style city full of one way roads, I began heading out of town. Once out of the suburbs, I joined the A74 that would run me all the way to Carlisle. The road was ghostly quiet, probably because the majority of traffic uses the M74 that runs alongside my route. The A road was very rough; the surface hadn't been redone in quite a few years. Parts of the road had separate bike paths, which were often better than the road, but for the majority the bike lane was just a faintly marked metre wide bumpy bit at the side of the road.

There weren't nearly as many hills today, which made the riding quick and fairly easy. During one of the gentle climbs, I saw a C130 Hercules doing low flying exercises through the valley, quite a sight. Unfortunately it was too quick to get a photo of.

The A74 took me down to Gretna Green, a border village known for marriages. Apparently one in every six Scottish marriages happen here! Some of the signs on the buildings boast they have performed over 10000 marriages! Its almost a little 'Vegas'.

Just on the edge of the village, I stopped for the obligatory photo with the sign. 'Welcome to England'. I had crossed Scotland, from top to bottom and east to west.

Just a few short miles left and I reached the centre of Carlisle and found my B&B for the night. As I got to my room, a short rain shower had started, I got here in perfect time! Dinner was a cheap Chinese buffet, and a quick walk round the town to help loosen the legs, before getting back to relax in the room.

Scotland done! Tomorrow, I head further south, to Preston.

Miles today: 98.8
Total miles: 384.5

Day 3: Fort William to Glasgow

Early in the morning, and having been put off hostelling for life, I escaped the Bank street lodge and headed down the road to tesco to buy my breakfast. Having filled up for the morning, I rejoined the A82 to follow it the rest of the way along the loch to where it meets the Irish Sea. It was similar to the end of yesterday's ride, fairly flat and gently winding.

Around the corner and I started to head towards the Glencoe mountain range for my climb for the day. The views were incredible, and I dont blame the coach losds of tourists stopping at every available parking spot along the route for photos! Massive rocky mountains either side of the road that climbs steadily up through them. Not too much of a punishing climb, it didnt drag on too much because of the insane views.

Once at the summit, the wind really picked up, and I cooled off very quickly on the long descents. I seemed to be heading downhill for most of the rest of the day, with only the occasional small hill to top.

Sticking with the A82, I rode the length of Loch Lomond (famous for its fish) before a small bike path started alongside it. I ended up having to change between the bike path and the road where the surface conditions got too bumpy. Parts of the bike path were fine and smooth, whilst others were unbearable on a road bike.

The end of the loch dropped me into a small town called Alexandria, where I joined a blissfully smooth cycle path (Route 7) along the river Leven, that lead down to the river Clyde. Through Dumbarton and still on the cycle path, I deviated from my planned route to follow the bike path all the way into the city centre (why can't all bike paths be this good?).

Lucky, I managed to get a room at the easyhotel, owned by the orange loving, cheap flights flogger, Stellios. Its a no frills tiny room, where even the tv remote is an optional extra and the sinks are (you guessed it) orange!

The Italian just next door served me with a foccacia bread stater and another big bowl of pasta. Piling on the carbs! A little walk around some of Glasgow's sights and I saw the legendary Danny Macaskill jumping bollards in town, very cool! Tomorrow, I head back across the border into England!

Miles today: 103.7
Total miles: 285.7

Day 2: Tain to Fort William

After helping myself to some of the yummy pastries on offer to guests at the Morangie B&B, I got my soggy bike out of the garage and set it up for the days ride.

Just out of Tain and heading west this time, I quickly joined a quiet lane running through a neat little pine forest. The rain from the day before made the pine trees smell great, and I was happy to be riding in the sunshine again. The first 40 miles were fairly flat, rolling along into the heart of Scotland.

Shortly after this though, the road began to climb up through the purple hills covered in heather - quite a view! The steep climbs came with accompanying steep descents, made more fun by the fact I could properly use my brakes in the dry!

After the steepest descent, I met up with the famous Loch Ness which I would follow to its end. The roads around the Loch were gentle again, casually meandering along. No signs of Nessie along the way unfortunately, but plenty of Nessie themed activities!

With Loch Ness behind me, the road began to criss cross between the other smaller lochs along the route, with a few small waterfalls running down next to the road. The rain had held off for the day so far, but by now a few small sprinkles were falling -  not enough to be of any bother though.

The last few miles down to Fort William were fairly easy, with some stunning views of Ben Nevis along the road. I'm checked into a small lodge with shared rooms, but yet to meet my roommates. To the local pub for a bite to eat, and they seem catered to cyclists, with plenty of pasta based dishes to choose from. I had haggis bites to start (deep fries haggis.... healthy!) with a chicken and bacon tagliatelle to give me tomorrows energy to get me down to Glasgow.

Miles today: 96.5
Total miles: 182

Day 1: John O'Groats to Tain

I started off the morning with a full English at the B&B, something to keep me going. There I met a man called John who was running the whole JOGLE route, 40 miles a day for 28 days, incredible! His father was following in the car and playing the role of cameraman for his travels. With the room paid up and everything packed where it should be, I set off, in true Two Tyred style, in the wrong direction! (Well, technically the right direction, but before I'd actually been to the John O'Groats point!)

After my short 6 mile ish 'warmup ride', I made it back up to the point for some photos. There seemed to be a fairly constant stream of coaches dropping elderly tourists to the viewpoint, who all took a photo or two and hopped back into their coach. A few wished me well and commented on how far it is. One lady even took my photo so she could 'inspire her son' to do something similar!

Back on the road for real this time, I passed a few other walkers and after a short while, John on his run. I wished him luck and set off down the road. The first 30 miles were wonderful, with only a few soft clouds in the sky and some great rolling hills. I thought I might miraculously manage to dodge the rain today, but then I noticed the large black cloud looming to my back-right. Uhoh!

A few more miles down the road and the fun began, with heavy rain stabbing at my face. The rain came at the most opportune moment, as I was beginning the steeper climbs and descents on my route. The water makes your tyres less grippy, your brakes basically useless and in the longer run leads to rust on your frame and drivetrain. Not to mention dropping your body temperature and making it very hard to see (the eternal struggle of glasses with no windscreen wipers vs. being poked in the eye constantly).

The scenery was stunning though, when the rain stopped and I could actually see it! In a few breif moments the sun even managed to break through the clouds, showing off the Highlands. The A9 I was riding on eventually meets the railway line I took yesterday to get to Thurso, and criss-crosses its way back to Inverness.

After a long cold slog, I made it across the Dornoch Firth and into Tain, greeted by the sweet whiskey smell of the Glen Morangie distillery at the top of the town. Checked into a family run B&B, a warm shower was very much needed. Dinner tonight was at a local pub where I had a prawn platter (basically and unmixed prawn cocktail) with a chilli con carne and, of course, a single Glen Morangie whiskey.... when in Rome! 

Miles today: 85.5 

Total miles: 85.5